Thursday, March 1, 2012

21. Go to the New Orleans Jazz Fest and/or Mardis Gras

Warning:  This post is really long (and probably boring) but I couldn't stop sharing!

Classic Mardi Gras grub... Zapp's Potato Chips, King Cake, and Muffulettas

We had the most ah-mazing time in New Orleans.  Our trip was everything a weekend get-away should be and it's always amazing what a little traveling can do for my soul.

We landed early Friday and were greeted by our fantastic hosts.  You really can't go wrong hanging with locals when visiting somewhere- it makes everything more authentic and convenient.  When we first pulled into the neighborhood where we were staying I was instantly giddy.  Giant mansions, tree lined streets, a street car traveling down the median (aka neutral ground)... it was like a movie.  Then we walked into our beautiful Bed and Breakfast and Mark and I kept giving each other the "Wow, isn't this awesome?!" eyes while we were shown around.

The Columns Bed and Breakfast

It was my first time to the Big Easy so everyone was nice and obliged me with the touristy stuff.  We hopped a street car to the French Quarter and hit up all the quintessential New Orleans spots.  We ate beignets from Cafe Du Monde, muffalettas from Central Grocery, watched a wedding outside Jackson Square, cheered on our first few parades on Bourbon Street, and sipped a Hurricane from Pat O'Briens.  Then we took a long walk back to our Bed and Breakfast where it was time to get serious about the Mardis Gras festivities.

Central Grocery for Muffalettas and their other bizarre items, Mark was in heaven at Pepper Palace, and the little KIPPsters in a parade.


Care Du Monde and Powdered Sugar Lipstick, Jackson Square, Pat O'Briens, Bourbon Street

We stayed right on the Parade Route and our hosts have been doing Mardis Gras at the Columns for years. They always get a block of rooms and guard the same spot on the street so they're pros at this point.  We were so lucky to ride on their coattails and definitely got a Cadillac experience.  We set up shop on the Neutral Ground much like you would for a tailgate- tables, chairs, tents, food, drinks, etc.  Since we were with seasoned pros, they had ladders set up on the main street where we would climb up and take position for the parades.  In between we would just hang out and at any point we could run up to our room for a bathroom break, extra layer of clothing, sunglasses, or a nap.  It was a ridiculously sweet set-up.

Ladders lined up on the parade route- VIP watching position!

Ready for another parade to roll

People pour in and pack the area.  Everyone just walks around, carrying drinks, watching the parades, stopping at a bar that's been set up on the street, hanging out in apartments facing the parade route, or doing whatever.  Anything goes!  We were in the more "Family Friendly" part so there were lots of little ones running around and having a great time.  A lot of schools even let out for the festivities.  There was definitely a strong college presence and I'm getting old because everyone looked so young to me!  It provided us with some people watching when a large group of under-agers set up behind us and boomed their rap music.  We saw some making out, passing out in lawn chairs, unflattering fashions, and a major physical brawl.  Another sign I'm getting old- I'm glad I wasn't them and totally fine with all that being the craziest things we saw during the weekend :)

View of the crowd from the balcony of The Columns

Shot of the Neutral Ground during a parade

The parades were so much fun!  After the first float came by I proudly told everyone, "I caught a bead!" I would soon find out what a silly comment that was.  Our first night we filled up three trash bags full of loot- beads, stuffed animals, cups, hats- tons of stuff!  We hooked trash bags onto our ladders and would just drop the items into them each time we caught something.  Don't worry- you don't have to do anything naughty to get fun things thrown at you :)  You just try to make eye contact with someone and yell, "Sweetheart!" or "Hey Mister! Mister!  Throw me something!"  I had a sign the first night which helped me to get some extra attention but the pros we were with were the best.  I also need to work on my hand-eye coordination so I can catch better.

Watching parades and catching loot!

My Official Mardi Gras Feedbag:  The perfect way to keep your beverage near and hands free to catch beads!

The weather was bad one afternoon so the parades were postponed.  This actually worked out well for us because we got a true day of relaxation- we ate a big breakfast, hung around on the porch, walked to get the absolute best Shrimp Po'Boy sandwich, took naps, and then had a nice dinner where I feasted on Shrimp'N'Grits.  It was quite the gluttonous day but isn't that the point of Mardi Gras?  Even though we got caught in a major rain storm, the weather was nice all weekend and you just needed a light fleece or sweatshirt.  Not bad for the middle of February.

The downpour was worth it for a Po'Boy from Domilise's...yummmmmm!

The biggest parade we were able to see was Bacchus and Will Ferrell was the King!  Each parade has a name and a "King".  The smaller ones just host local people or honorees from within their organization but as the parades get larger and closer to the big Fat Tuesday celebration, the Kings and Queens start to be celebrities.  Will Ferrell was hilarious on the float (of course) and we caught a cow bell that he threw!

Will Ferrell as Bacchus!

Yes, we have a cow bell from Will Ferrell and it's just as awesome as it sounds.

Each night when the parades are over, there is a crazy amount of trash.  I mean a REALLY crazy amount of trash.  But not to worry, you just wait until you hear "Clear the Neutral Ground" and the parish brings out their prisoners to clean everything up.  They move along the entire route, raking and sweeping, making piles that a bulldozer then comes and scoops up.  Really bizarre but really interesting.  We would wait and watch them each night out of sheer bewilderment and also to help set the ladders back up and re-claim the spot on the route.  Once again, we were so lucky to be with the pros!  They would even take shifts for the rest of the night to guard the ladders and location.

A sampling of the trash after a parade

Hard to see the inmates cleaning up after the parades... look for the orange pants.
There are so many other cool things I could keep going on about.  All these details might be boring to others but I just found it all so interesting.  Mardi Gras is silly, frivolous, indulgent, and just plain fun. Of course, the main reason it was amazing is because our hosts were amazing.  I can't thank them enough for everything they did for us.  New Orleans is great and I can't wait to go back!

5 comments:

  1. What a great write up! You truly captured the weekend! We loved having you and look forward to doing it again!!

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  2. Hannah, this is a lovely recap. I feel like I got to go again. It was great to meet you and Mark and so much fun to have you there!

    Liz
    (Tommy's sister)

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  3. Hans! Loved hearing about your trip, it sounds like such a blast. So glad you guys had such a great time! Miss you.

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  4. "I caught a bead." Classic. It looks like you had such a fun trip. I absolutely love the beignets from Cafe du Monde. It was probably the hottest day ever and we walked about two miles to get them, but they were so worth it. I want to go to New Orleans with you! I can't imagine how much trouble we would get ourselves into.

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  5. Heidi- I'm glad you think the post did the weekend justice! I probably sound like a child in the way I described everything but it was just so much fun for a first-timer like me!
    Liz- It was so great to meet you too and thanks again for everything!
    Kel- Glad you saw the post, I've been behind on everything and wanted to share it with you. The next trip I write about needs to be Boston!
    Alli- You + Me + NOLA definitely needs to happen :)

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